Lisbon is a weekend city that rewards walking and doesn’t reward planning. Two days is enough to fall for it.
Saturday
Start in Alfama, the oldest neighborhood, before the trams fill up. Espresso at A Brasileira, then wander down to Praça do Comércio. Lunch at the Time Out Market — yes, touristy, but the quality is genuinely excellent.
Afternoon: Belém. Jerónimos Monastery, the Tower, and the original Pastéis de Belém. Go to the bakery, not just the storefront — the lines move faster than they look.
Evening: fado in Bairro Alto. Tasca do Chico is the most honest venue.
Sunday
Day trip to Sintra. Take the CP train from Rossio — 45 minutes and under €5 round trip. Start at Pena Palace as early as you can; by noon the crowds make the terraces unusable. Save Quinta da Regaleira for the afternoon when the initiation well has its best light.
Back in Lisbon by dinner, head to Cervejaria Ramiro for seafood. Arrive before 7pm or prepare to wait.